Face the future
A film by Gordon Von Steiner for Vogue Italia
Gordon von Steiner is one of the new upcoming talents in photography and filmmaking. The New York-based fashionista envisions and portrays his ideas in original ways, while high caliber clients become more and more aware of him.
Vogue Italia is one of those clients and asked Steiner to direct a film for their September cover story 2012, shot by Steven Meisel: Face the Future. Featuring the mesmerizing Carolyn Murphy, among with strange absurdities of actual people and dolls, not just a fashion video is presented but as well a film that carries along an important concern of the image’s future.
The seductive curves of a toned figure are slowly unveiled by the ultimate seamless shave in designer, animator and photographer Bart Hess’s sleek new film. Inspired by the aerodynamic forms of swimmers currently battling it out in the Olympic pool, Hess was aided by a pair of human shavers manipulating a two-meter long blade in turning a mechanical act of grooming into a strangely hypnotic performance. “What is important to me in my work is a sense of estranging,” admits Hess, who added the white bar in post-production to compound the uncanny feel of the film. “I want to show the spectator an image that may not be recognizable right away.” Collaborating on textiles with designers like Ann Sofie Back and Iris van Herpen, and sculpting unique outfits for photographer Nick Knight’s editorials for AnOther Magazine and US Vogue, Hess is known for his experimental treatment of materials, like the 15Ib slime dress created for Lady Gaga’s Born This Way album and video. “Normally within my work I am looking for the limits of a material,” says Hess. “But in this film I was looking for the limits of the shaving ritual by scaling it up to include the whole body.” Here, Hess takes NOWNESS beneath the skin of his shoot.
The Firste Cycle
Stop motion animation
On the 4th of October 2011, byBorre had his first Paris fashion show entitled: the First Cycle – the story from the yarn to the show.The show started with a visualisation of a creative production process in a stop-motion animation.
In fashion the production process is something you hardly get to see and for byBorre that is just as important as for the final pieces.
Concept : Borre Akkersdijk
Script : Borre Akkersdijk & Niels Hoebers
Stop motion : Niels Hoebers
3D & Post production : FINK
Music : Sound Circus
Helmut Lang: Make it Hard | The Fashion Legend on His Renegade Act of Artistic Reinvention
Iconic designer turned artist Helmut Lang shredded 20 years of fashion history for his last exhibition, repurposing 6,000 garments from his eponymous label into a series of terrestrially textured, stalactite columns that stretch from floor to ceiling. On view at the Fireplace Project in East Hampton, Make it Hard comprises 16 sculptures that meld natural and synthetic fibers with plastics, metals, leathers, fur, feathers and even hair. “The fight against entropy and decay is always going to be a losing battle,” says international curator Neville Wakefield. “So why not make of that destructive energy something new?” It should be noted that Lang’s most adored designs were saved from the cut, when in 2009 and 2010 the designer donated a large volume of his work to select fashion, design and contemporary art collections worldwide. A leading figure of 90s minimalism, the Austrian-born Lang has left a lasting mark on the industry. Following his brand’s acquisition by the Prada Group six years ago, Lang relocated to a Long Island studio to focus on his artistic career. “In the autobiographical sense, the material of people’s lives has always been the subject of their art,” says Wakefield. “The only difference here is the level of identification and investment that the public has in that material.” Nowness has asked Lang about his dramatic endeavor.
Read the article here
Amethyst by Koen Hauser
Amethyst is a site-specific installation with images and sound. Slowly dissolving slides reminisce the process of decay. The automated slideshow is projected in a dimly lit but richly decorated room, the visual style of the imagery referring to fashion photography.
Koen Hauser created this work on the occasion of Salon/1, by whom he was invited to show his work in Museum van Loon during the Amsterdam Fashion Week 2010.
website Koen Hauser
Hussein Chalayan Shows A New Image Of The Body
We’ve seen what avant-garde British fashion designer Hussein Chalayan can do with technology and clothing—we’ll never forget that feeling of awe and fascination when we first saw his S/S 2007 line of animatronic dresses (which zipped, flipped and reconfigured right before our eyes), or the pixelated LED dresses from F/W 2007 and the laser dresses from S/S 2008, the latter two of which were made in collaboration with CreatorMoritz Waldemeyer.
Then again, perhaps it comes as no surprise that in the forward-thinking world of fashion, designers would be experimenting with technology. After all, as Chalayan says, “Technology is really the only thing through which you can do new things.”
For his S/S 2012 presentation in Paris this September, The Creators Project collaborated with the fashion mogul in order to shake things up a bit.
excerpt from thecreatorsproject.com
‘It all started with a single sequin from my sewing-package of the second module that I took, novemer 2010 at L’école Lesage in Paris’. ~ Desiree Hammen
The methamorphosis started on a small skill but it still spreads into the world. The work has been shown at De Krabbedans in Eindhoven and at Salon in Amsterdam where it was exhibited in an extended version.
About the artist
Desirée Hammen (1976) graduated at Artez Institute of the Arts in Arnhem, 2003. She works as a fashion designer and artist in her hometown Eindhoven,The Netherlands. Desirée’s current work consists of a series of free-knit cardigans, installations and autonomous embroideries, her speciality. She has finished her training at the famous Ecole Lesage in Paris, where she lives part-time.In her work Desirée is combining haute couture techniques with her own DIY skills, exploring the beauty of imperfection. Her work is being described as ‘poetic, chaotic, intense and playful’. With her indoor and outdoor installations she is disrupting reality in a gentle way. With her handmade one-of-a-kind clothings she is stressing the personality of the person who is wearing it. Over the last years Desirée participated in exhibitions and projects in Amsterdam, New York and Shanghai.
COSMIC WONDER Light Source, launched in 2007, is a fashion project.
COSMIC WONDER study various aspects of light and weave these ideas into the clothing.
Wearing light, one creates an environmental effect, shifting the balance of everyday occurrences.
Sharing the light’s warmth, the brightness of life opens up to the universe.
The Origins of Light
What produces light, what describes a path through space.
Wearing the light, sharing its warmth.
It passes through us.
Create a space in COSMIC WONDER Light Source.
Bring the space with you everyday.
(from COSMIC WONDER FREE PRESS 1)
Cosmic Wonder is a conceptual project initiated in 1997 by artist Yukinori Maeda.
It is composed of three distinct activities; COSMIC WONDER (artworks),
COSMIC WONDER Light Source (fashion and lifestyle project)
and COSMIC WONDER Free Press (book and music publishing).
The Center for COSMIC WONDER, founded in 2007, was designed to integrate all of these various activities. Besides functioning as a gallery space for art and concerts, it is a shelter from the daily march of time, where visitors can share the experience of drifting along with the flow of sounds in the universe.
In the summer of 2012, Oranienbaum Palace will be hosting an exhibition of contemporary Dutch Design and fashion in combination with historical artefacts from the Dutch Royal Archives. Built for Henriette Catharina, Princess of Anhalt-Dessau, Oranienbaum is part of the heritage of the House of Orange-Nassau. With a major conservation and refurbishment process nearing completion, the palace and its park have been restored to their former grandeur.
Some 50 rooms in the palace feature examples of contemporary excellence in craftsmanship – furniture, jewellery, glass and ceramics, hand-sewn fashion items and accessories – set off with examples of china and other decorative arts. Care has been taken to reflect the original function of each room.
Edited by Robert Violette, Contribution by Judith Clark, Susannah Frankel, Emily King and Sarah Mower
The comprehensive book on the visionary Hussein Chalayan, one of the most innovative, experimental, and conceptual fashion designers working today. Internationally acclaimed, Hussein Chalayan is known for his inventive use of materials and integration of new technology into his designs. He is also celebrated for putting the creative process itself on view. Some of his best-known designs include a paper dress that can be folded into an envelope and airmailed, armchair covers that transform into dresses, and a coffee table that reveals itself to be a wooden skirt. Original and groundbreaking, his designs are also pretty and modern, and this book explores that continuum. Featuring Chalayan’s complete body of fashion and creative work—including his installations, videos, and photographs—this unique and beautiful volume is as thought-provoking as it is stunning and is sure to be coveted by fashion, art, and design connoisseurs.
Hussein Chalayan lives in London and shows his collections in Paris. His work has been featured in numerous exhibitions, including “Radical Fashion,” at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London, “Fashion‚” at the Kyoto Costume Institute in Japan, “Airmail Clothing” at the Musée de la Mode Palais du Louvre in Paris, and “Goddess: The Classical Mode” at The Museum of Modern Art in New York. He has twice been named the British Designer of the Year and in 2006 was awarded the M.B.E. (Member of the Order of the British Empire). Judith Clark is a fashion writer and curated “Radical Fashion” at the V&A and “The Art of Fashion: Installing Allusions” at the Boijmans van Beuningen Museum. Susannah Frankel is a fashion writer and the fashion editor of The Independent in London. Emily King is an author, curator, and design historian. She is a design editor for Frieze magazine and a regular contributor to Print and Fantastic Man.Robert Violette is an editor and publisher in London. He edited You Can Find Inspiration in Everything by Paul Smith, as well as the first major books on Damien Hirst, Jeff Koons, and Sophie Calle.